i'm going to break our mine and tanner's big trip this year up into three different sections: patagonia part one and two, and buenos aires will come later. but just for the sake of my memory before i forget, here was our basic itinerary from the very beginning:
thursday afternoon: tanner and i flew out of lax to buenos aires with a layover in lima. tanner's mom came down with the boys on thursday, took eli to school on friday, then the boys stayed in santa barbara the following week we were gone.
friday: we arrived in buenos aires that morning and amazingly enough, met our travel companions, will and kristen, in the immigration line at the airport. it was pretty fantastic timing. the rest of the day was spent in buenos aires (i'll come back to this day in a later post).
saturday: here is where the travelling got interesting, and where i will start to elaborate on our daily activities. we flew from buenos aires (gotta love being out the door at 5 am to get to the airport) to el calafate, which is still in argentina, but close to the border of chile. you can see below on the map how far south we were.
after we arrived in el calafate we rented a car in the cute, little travel town and made our way to puerto natales. it was about a 4 hour drive, which we made in a small car thats doors wouldn't quite seal so we had to talk really loud to hear to each other. will also had to open my door for me every time cause apparently i wasn't strong enough to pry the door open on my own. the car rental company warned us that we had to hold on to our doors when we were getting out, because sometimes the wind is so fierce that the doors can completely bend the opposite way they should when left open. luckily we never encountered wind that crazy.
during our drive we crossed the border into to chile. we had to stop on the border in argentina, and also again in chile. we were told they were really strict on what you cross the border with, so i didn't pack anything with peanuts in it (one of the items they said couldn't cross), but they didn't really check anything so i was a little bugged (since i left most of the granola-type bars i bought for the trip + food at home since i thought i wouldn't be able to bring it into patagonia when i'd need it. and hello, i was 10 weeks pregnant at the time and food is a big deal :)).
we made it to puerto natales with enough time to rent some equipment: mess kit, the coolest tiny camping stove, and another warm fleece for me cause i'm always worried about being cold (luckily i didn't need it). we also were able to get all our information for the refugios we were staying at in torres del paine (the area of patagonia we hiked). we stopped by the grocery store to pick up some things, and grabbed pizza really quick to eat in the car as we then took our two hour car ride into torres del paine.
the first map you can see again where el calafate is, then also where puerto natales is in chile, then where torres del paine is (yes, puerto natales is a little out of the way, but we had to stop there so oh well... it was totally worth it). the second map just gives you a basic overview of patagonia. its between argentina and chile, so you can obviously access it through either side, but we went in through chile for the "w" hike we wanted to do.
we paid our entrance fee to get into the park, and after making a wrong turn eventually made it to our refugio late at night. we hurried and got ready for bed in our communal bathroom, then snuck into our room so we didn't wake up our two other mystery roommates. it probably didn't matter how quiet we were when we went in the room and blindly picked which bunk bed we wanted, because once will fell asleep his snoring could be heard for miles. seriously, its impressive.
sunday: we woke up and took our time getting ready for the day. it turns out our roommates were two older women, and when one of them came back in the room that morning and was going a little over the top talking about how great we were for being so quite last night, we knew she was lying and was probably as sleep deprived as we were. needless to say, they stayed in a different room the next night :).

above is the "w" hike in torres del paine, and from the different colored areas you can see how we split up the hike. on sunday, our first hike, we went up and down the right side of the w thats in orange. it was considered a hard hike from the reading we did, so i was a little worried about how my first trimester body was going to handle it. luckily zofran helped keep my stomach in check for the most part, and my biggest problem was fatigue. i warned tanner that i would need to probably go slow and take a lot of breaks. like the great husband he is, he told me he would stay with me the whole time and not to worry. and of course like the husband he is, stayed with me for the first maybe five minutes and then was off ahead with will for most of the beginning part :). but of course i had my amazing sister kristen with me who helped me out the entire way.
the hike was naturally split up into three different sections (or maybe i just noticed as i was trying to keep my mind occupied on other things outside of my body) that we called: the plains, the forest, and the rocky mountain. so here we we go with some pictures-
our refugio from kristen's bed
we were heading to 'base las torres'. the air quality out there was so amazingly refreshing.
once we hiked along the side of the mountain with views of the pretty river, we crossed it and took a food break. those pringles were a hot commodity in our group that we had to ration.
after our food break we made our way into the forest section (which i have pictures of, but not on this computer. most of the trees had black bark), then made our way to the rocky mountain section.
i felt like i was really going to die at this point. i was contemplating whether or not i should sit and wait for the group to go to the top and come back, but i'm glad i stuck with it and made it to the top. kristen kindly had to put her hand on my back to help keep me going up the steep mountain.
and we made it to the torres! it was very majestic.
here we had our second lunch break. will and tanner put their feet in the freezing green glacier water (krisen and i had to be satisfied with just taking off our boots since we were wearing tights under our pants), and took a much needed rest. we were also feeling extremely fortunate about our timing since some people who came down the mountain about 45 minutes before we got to the top said they had to wait up there for two hours till the clouds cleared so they could see the torres.
we hiked back down, and of course these two went ahead on their own so here kristen and i found them hanging out in our refugio room. totally hiking hours this day was 8 hours, but it took us longer with all our water/snack/food breaks.
we showered and changed into clean clothes. tanner and i brought a lot of freeze dried meals from rei, so this first night we had a pasta primavera and we all actually loved it. it was a great introduction into the life of eating freeze-dried foods. then we collapsed for the night.
sunday was a really hard hike day for me, but i'm so glad i did it and had such amazing company the whole time. as for the rest of patagonia... i have to wait for another post to get some pictures on our laptop, so monday, tuesday, and wednesday will be coming shortly (well, so i say now... but we'll see)!